Singing my yoga: taking music lessons in Rishkesh

This alluring sign caught my attention

I stared at the enormous electric air cooler that dominated the blue cube of a room where I have been coming daily for singing lessons. A powerful roar was emanating. How was I going to hear myself over that?

Chandra my teacher, pretty, petite and quick of mind had imported it for my comfort. I didn’t wish to appear ungrateful and refuse her kindness; I suspect she was paying money to rent it. 

In any event, it would just add another layer to the sound sandwich that is India.

Chandra teaches singing, tabla and sitar from her home close to the main Laxman Temple in Rishikesh. Access is via a set of steep, narrow concrete steps lined with saffron robed sadhus. They spend their days sitting outside with their alms bowls.  From the teaching room I could hear a very regular chink of coins being received and the ubiquitous salution Hari Om!  

We sit cross legged on a red patterned wool rug and Chandra operates a harmonium to accompany me.  I am practicing vocal exercises:  variations on scales and arpeggios Sa Re Ga Ma Pa Da Ni Sa. This takes up the entire hour.  My brain is quite tired by the end from the concentration. 

I enjoy it very much, as a teacher, it feels great to relax and receive instruction. And although Rishikesh is all about yoga and there are countless options for classes, I am well established with my daily asana and  so have the time and resources to spend on other things.

I am going deeper and deeper into bhakti yoga and kirtan and sacred singing of all types. So this a great way to improve and grow in confidence as a singer. Private tuition is extremely affordable (200 -300rs  per class) and I record the sessions onto my mp3 player so I can practice in my room or when walking about town.  

Bansi's teaching room

I have a second teacher, a brahmin, named Bansi. I would guess him to be in his seventies. He is extraordinarily youthful and energetic of spirit and has a kindly presence.

I was standing in the main square pausing in the shade a few days ago when I noticed a sign outside a men’s hair salon. 

It turns out that the barber, Rakesh,  is a longterm student of classical flute who is happy to guide new pupils to his master.

Hence daily I take myself to a second noisy room (building work below, monkey fights above) to sit on another rug (old, beige, dusty) and practice a different set of vocal exercises: mantra  or prayer.   

Bansi is very laid back. On my first day he asked me what I wanted to learn. To practice the yogic chants I had been given five years ago and to move onto longer mantra I replied. 

From a large wooden cabinet with glass doors, Bansi selected a slim book, Sivananda Ashram Daily Prayers produced by the Divine Life society. This is published locally; the ashram is located just across the river at Ram Jhula.  Another very solid harmonium was taken down and the familiar, comforting warm drone once again accompanied me.

We started at the very beginning of the book, with a wonderful guru stotrum which is spoken at morning prayers.  Then we practice the classic mantra that will be familiar to most yogins and bhaktas: Poornamadah, Sahana vavatu, Sarvesham swastir vavatu, Tryambakam yajamahe  and more. 

Guruji!

I love the latter, after ten repetitions or so I begin to feel fire in my belly! This is also a favourite of Bansi who tells me with smiling eyes This mantra to Shiva is meant to save your life- from Devils!  Useful!

These sessions are so very helpful, in terms of correcting anglicisms that have crept in my pronounciation.  And in reminding me of correct intonation patterns.  I love the sing song lilting melodies, Bansi sings with a great lightness and obvious, easy joy and he is very adept at tabla too.

So my days are pretty full with lessons and self-practice.  I have started attracting more singing opportunities: the law of attraction in action. 

A young Israeli guy spotted my guitar bag and invited me to a night time jam session at the Bombay Guesthouse. I poked my head in during the day to check it out and was met by a wall of ganja smoke and giggles, so I probably won’t go, but I was happy to be asked.

I bumped into someone I met in Arambol in Goa, like me a health freak. She is staying at the Pyramid Guest House on account of their sprouts and spirulina. She thought it would be cool to start a singing satsang on the beach by Ram Jhula. I agreed, it was a good idea. 

Tiny temple courtyard where womens bhajans are hosted

Finally, I was walking past a tiny blue temple heading out of town last night as dusk was falling. I was mesmerized by the enchanting sounds of a women’s bhajan group.

I scrambled down some stairs following the sounds of bliss. In a small covered courtyard in front of a shrine were women of all ages, from two to eighty two, chanting kirtan together as the male priest performed puja.

 

I was beckoned in and handed a large pair of manjira hand cymbals. How amazing! I couldn’t follow the chants but it was enough to be present and so there I sat, on a cool stone floor, in the nurturing presence of such beautiful women; sisters, cousins, aunties, daughters and granddaughters, chiming and clapping with love in our hearts as the sun went down.

I am looking forward to many more musical adventures as my time in India unfolds.

Om shanti, shanti, shanti

Jennifer