Deep Peace in Dharamkot

Local school children heading home

The path from  Dharamkot to McLeod Ganj is steep and stony, descending sharply with tight curves requiring one’s full attention, an exercise in mindfulness.

A smoother, broader tarmac’d  road runs roughly parallel and is the thoroughfare of auto-rickshaws and taxi cabs.

Which means that my daily journey into town and back is extremely peaceful and often solitary, save passing families of macaque monkeys foraging in the undergrowth and congregations of large black crows calling out from the tree tops.

Tall pines forest the valley below and create ample cool shade for my walk, so even at midday it is easy and comfortable. It’s a 2km trek downhill into McLeod Ganj from an altitude of 2200km at  Dharamkot and fairly strenuous on the way back up.


It's a great way to stay fit and work off the momo dumplings which are cooked and served street side all over town and are just too delicious!

How did I get here? I had a number of tips and recommendations for places to stay in Dharmashala. I was looking for somewhere quiet, in nature, out of town. A friend from home loves Bhagsu, but I had heard that there had been a lot of tourist development in recent years. A laid back tabla player I met in Rishikesh eulogized about  Dharamkot and I followed his suggestion.

Auspicious beginnings. I took a rickshaw from the bus stand and booked into the first guest house I saw. My neighbour turned out to be Hugo, a kind and sensitive Swede who I had hung out with for most of last winter in Goa. He had arrived moments before me.

No words, just mutual astonishment at the synchronicity and a HUGE hug.  Hugo had travelled from Manali and would be heading to Goa at the start of November. It was great to see him and catch up. We shared a simple supper as the sun set.

Room with a view Paul's Guest House

The following morning I took a walk through the village.  Dharamkot hosts a small number of guest houses, café-restaurants and shops. Many households offer rooms for rent, laundry services and display toilet rolls and bottled water for sale.

Yet  Dharamkot strongly retains a sense of itself as a pastoral mountain village where goats and cattle graze, children play freely and there is an all pervasive feeling of timelessness.

I quickly  realized I could upgrade my accommodation and so I did. Prices here are very affordable, I was quoted between 80 – 250  rupees for rooms and that was without trying too hard. 

I now have a wonderful room with attached bathroom and balcony and simply stunning views out across the valley to the mountains. As I write I am sitting on my bed with the windows wide open, taking in the fresh air and the deep peace. 

Sounds of nature abound, cicadas rustle, birds peep and cheep. Dogs bark in the distance and the mooing of cattle echoes across the valley. Vehicle traffic is so infrequent that every motorbike, auto or taxi is heard. 

Sleepy village life

There is space on my balcony for a yoga mat and I start my asana practice at 7:15am, so as the sun rises from behind the mountains opposite at 7.30 I receive its’ full blessing; a great way to feel energized, vivified and connected.

I like sit out on my balcony during the day, wrapped up warmly, feeling happy and contented. Counting my blessings as butterflies dance and flutter in the sunlight.

There are gorgeous walks out into the mountains, along defined and less well defined paths as well as established trekking routes to the neighbouring village of Naddi, Triund, the church of St John in the Wilderness, the waterfall at Bhagsu.

Dusk falls around 6.30pm by which time I have dined and returned to my room as the setting sun colours the mountains a rich russet. Birdsong accompanies the close of the day, it is truly beautiful.

I am relieved to have found a place that is just right for me now: a pause after the heady chaos of Rishikesh. I am feeling restored by night after night of unbroken sleep, proximity to nature and a complete lack of demands on my time.  I am living in a tranquil haven and I am grateful for my good fortune.

Approaching McLeod Ganj

Emotionally I am steadier and calmer and have had started to feel moments of joy. I am happy here and can understand how travellers might settle in longterm.

Living is easy, affordable and comfortable, if like me, you prefer life’s simple pleasures.

How long will I remain? I am gifting myself the freedom and spaciousness of not planning; right now I have every reason to stay and none to leave.

I suspect that the determining factor will be the climate; the sun is warm and bright in the day and the skies are cloudlessly blue. 

At night, temperatures fall and as winter approaches it is only going to get cooler.  Rooms are not heated; I am doing well wearing jumpers, socks and fleecy pants in bed. Last night I needed a second thick blanket.

I don’t really want to invest in heavy clothing, although I have my eye on a funky white furry hat I spotted in a bargain basket. I certainly don’t wish to suffer the cold, I probably have a couple of weeks left.

And I’m loving and appreciating every moment.

Peaceful blessings

Jennifer