A simple Diwali in Dharamkot

A selection of the goodies on sale

Three days ago a large supply of fireworks and crackers was delivered to the village. Cardboard boxes of various sizes in bright packaging promising excitement and fun.

It was a bit of a happening: boys  of all ages crowded round as they were unloaded from a small pick-up van and displayed on a folding table outside the general store.

Whenever I passed by I would see clusters of children chattering excitedly, maybe spending a few rupees pocket money on sparklers or crackers, whilst dreaming of the larger rockets and bangers.

This was the only Diwali related commercial activity I noticed in Dharamakot, save advertisements in the newspapers entreating housewives to upgrade their kitchen appliances. Preparations were simple, householders stringing garlands of plastic flowers across doorways and paper lanterns in porches.

Late morning I was invited into the Sanctuary, a holistic spa and workshop space by the co-owners Anand and Gora.  I had met them a couple of days ago and we had chatted for ages about India and holistic therapies.

In a fusion representative of their respective ancestries (Gora is French, Anand is from Pune) we shared genuine espresso and traditional Indian sweets made with ghee and jaggery, absurdly unhealthy but an enjoyable treat. I also enjoyed the company of Kala, Anand’s precious pet Chihuahua who had been ordered on the internet and shipped to Delhi by breeders in Thailand.  

The shopkeepers and café owners of Dharamkot were in buoyant mood. At the fruit and veg stand I submitted my usual request for two bananas and held out a ten rupee note which is the regular price. The grocer’s eyes twinkled as he picked out three bananas. Happy Diwali! He laughed as he wrapped them in newspaper.

I checked in with Mohan who single handedly runs Cool Talk Corner where I eat most evenings, to see whether or not he would be opening. Today early closing. I have to make fire and puja. Can make money every day but Diwali one day only!

Instead I visited the Trek and Dine, I hadn’t eaten here before as there is a large Bob Marley poster on the wall, which is traveller code for You can smoke marijuana here.  I noticed a few other refugees from Mohan’s place, but chose a quiet table to myself.  In the street below random crackers were being launched, setting off  car alarms at regular intervals.

Back at Paul's Guest House I had a dilemma. My room really needed cleaning, I had been looking out for Jatinda who does the housekeeping all day.

Dusk was falling and festivities were about to start and I finally saw him in the common lounge as he was locking up and preparing to leave.

Happy Diwali!  I began. Jatinda smiled broadly and returned the greeting.

I'm so sorry to ask you now, but is it possible to get my room cleaned now? I ventured, embarrassed to be asking.

Yes! I do it now! In a moment Jatinda was on his feet.

I fetched some clean linen and followed him to my room on the first floor. I was baffled, taken aback by Jatinda's continued good mood. I felt sure that the timing of my request was unreasonable and inappropriate, but he clearly did not feel the same and I was deeply touched by his natural joy, happiness and generosity.

We gazed out from my balcony together as the sun set and lights began to twinkle on the hillside. Tonight all of India is celebrating!  Jatinda declared with pride and satisfaction. I thanked him effusively for his service and he left to join his family.

NASA photograph of India at Diwala from space

What should I do? I had three options. I could head into neighbouring Bhagsu village where there were two Hindu temples and get fully stuck in to the merriment. Or I pop back into Dharamakot; everyone would be out on the streets I felt sure of it. Or I could squirrell myself away and observe the celebrations from the guest house.

It was an easy choice, the view from my balcony was so lovely. I was able to watch locals visiting a tiny shrine, lighting the tiny clay lamps that give Diwali it's literal meaning (Sanskrit for row of lights).

As the night sky darkened the village lights appeared bright and cosy and then the celebrations really began.

Fireworks and crackers were fired off from all directions with unrelenting intensity. This in turn caused dogs to bark, baby goats to bleat and sulphurous smoke to seep in to my room even though I had closed the windows and shutters. It was really, really noisy. The fireworks continued into the night, past midnight I am told although amazingly I fell asleep at around ten pm.

I remember my first Diwali in India, in 2004. I was living in Mysore, studying astanga vinyasa yoga. I had arrived in early October and as such was present to a string of Hindu festivals, Navaratri, Dusshera and then Diwala. In addition to the fireworks and so on, vast speakers the size of  small dwellings were transported around the city on trucks decorated with flashing bright lights, pumping amplified devotional music and hindi hit songs throughout the night.

It was all too much, the noise was driving me insane! I used  my emergency credit card to book into an expensive ayurvedic spa retreat twenty kilometers away from the city, to be soothed by clean, cool cotton sheets and tranquility.

This year I have been holding my friends and the community of Glastonbury in my mind and heart. As Diwali is celebrated on the new moon in October, so is lunar samhain. It is a powerful time to be present in town as the veil thins and darkness is animated in ritual, song and ceremony.

It is a night of mayhem and revelry and generally I stay home for that one too. I am happy to be here where the light is celebrated.

Jyotir namaha!
May the inner light shine always

Jennifer