A Modern Tibetan Tale - Dhagyal's Story

Moody view from the Peace Cafe

Maybe because of the surrounding mountains, the weather here in Himachal Pradesh seems so very close, powerful and dramatic. Autumn has arrived violently, with rolling thunder that vibrates through my being and lightning that cracks so sharply it would split the sky.

Today, it rained steadily all morning. I awoke early and watched the changing panorama from my bed. Dawn was multi-coloured, the sun rose red, fading to pink. Then a delicate wash of lilac coloured the sky followed by a deepening, darkening opaque grey, foretelling the weather to come.

I meandered into town for breakfast as usual; optimistically or recklessly wearing light summer clothing, defying the mood of the sky. 

I sat for some time in the Peace Café in McLLo (McLeod Ganj) one of my fave hang outs. I come for the very good coffee and friendly service and stay for the decent collection of reading material and free wi-fi.

It’s cosy inside with small tables, the smell of espresso and warm pastries. Most days it’s busy with Tibetan Buddhist monks with laptops and smart mobiles; today his Holiness the Dalai Lama is beginning a set of teachings in the Temple and I had the place to myself. 

His Holiness is loved all over town

I decided to sit out back, under a tarped bamboo roof, open to majestic mountain views. It was chilly but dry. After some time I was joined by a smiling young Tibetan. We smiled and laughed a little, two crazies who prefer to be outside! 

I love the rain! I declared.Yes! So fresh, so cleansing!  Replied my companion, who introduced himself as Dhagyal and offered to tell me his story.

Born in occupied Tibet, Dhagyal journeyed to India via Mount Kailash and Nepal at the age of twenty, leaving his village and family. He set off in 2002 with a guide and seven young men of similar age.   

In the Tibetan calendar this was the year of the horse, regarded as highly auspicious for all types of pilgrimage and travel. 

A year later the group arrived in Dharmashala. Dhagyal spoke very warmly and enthusiastically of his reception,  After coming here I get an opportunity to go to Tibetan Trust School for four and a half years. It is very special, for Tibetan newcomers to get a chance to go to school, that there wasn’t in the Chinese High Schools. 

I was curious to know more about Dhagyal’s lifestyle. Many of the older Tibetans in Dharmashala dress in traditional costume and maintain their cultural heritage producing handicrafts and cooking regional food. 

Dhagyal, 28 Painter and barrista

Dhagyal dresses in modern sporty leisure wear and works in a coffee shop. In his free time he reads and paints. With his funky haircut, slogan teeshirt, skinny jeans, Converse canvas trainers and a hoody he wouldn’t look out of place in London, New York or Paris. And this look can be seen all over Dharmashala on Tibetan youth of both sexes.

What do you like about Dharmshala? I enquired. 

Dhagyal beamed his answer:

For me it is very necessary to be here. First to improve my English, second to awaken my mind. I meet lots of foreign people for conversation and English in the coffee shop. It is very interesting and good for my future direction. 

What is your future direction? 

I can’t say, sorry!  

Me neither! We laughed together, then I paid my bill and left.

It was a fun, easy conversation. Dhagyal was easy going, relaxed and positive and care free in the best possible way; enjoying the moment without stressing about the future. He had a strong sense of himself and was committed to self-improvement. I wish him every future success and happiness.

Out in the street, the rain showed no sign of easing and in under a minute my sandalled feet were squelching wet and my cotton harem pants were soaked through. I needed to head uphill to my room in Dharamkot, two kilometers away. 

I thought about buying an umbrella to keep me dry, but I didn’t feel like spending 250 rupees and then having to carry an umbrella around India. I took a rickshaw for 60 rupees which trundled and bumped slowly along, passing locals and tourists who were appropriately dressed in waterproofs, walking boots and so on.

Winter clothes for sale: but not for me!

In the early afternoon I took a walk in the rain: leaving the UK in late September with a return date of early Feb necessitated a warm outfit for travelling. By some minor miracle of foresight I had included a light cagoule and waterproof trousers. 

It was something of a mixed blessing. As I congratulated myself on my skilful organization, I had to acknowledge that the weather was changing and while it was fun to watch the rain from a café, indulge in a rickshaw ride and splash through puddles in my waterproofs, I couldn’t envisage staying here as the weather turned wetter and colder. 

Moreover, I have been hearing the inner voice very clearly, communicating a sense that it was time to think about moving on. So no point trying to hang on here, despite my deep fondness. A week from now it will be November and the weather will definitely turn. Ironically, the place I am thinking of visiting next could well be mid-Monsoon at this time of year, so perhaps there will be no evading the rain. 

Tomorrow I will be checking out train ticketing for what is sure to be an epic journey to the southern state of Tamil Nadu, I want to go back to Auroville. 

And so it is….

Soggy blessings!

Jennifer