Notes from Anandashram

Om sri ram jai ram jai jai ram, sri ram jai ram jai jai ram

Approaching the shrine of Papaji

This morning I was roused from sleep by a devotional male chorus, chanting the mantra that is the core spiritual practice here at Anandashram. 

The ashram's beloved founder, Swami Ramdas, (affectionately referred to as Papaji - dear father) is reputed to have achieved enlightenment through this method and accordingly devotees uphold the practice.

The ram nam is sung continuously from dawn 'til dusk alternately by male and female bhaktas. The practice is rotated daily between the three mahasamadhi shrines of Papaji, Mataji and Swami Satchidanda.* Such a beautiful way to meet the day; I lie in bed, eyes still closed and smiling inside. 

I might equally be stirred awake by the lowing of the ashram cows - also lovely. With names such as Bhavani (consort of Shiva), Bhagavati ( enlightened teacher), Vidya (knowledge), Mala (garland) these ladies are well cared for. 

I visited the goshala (cowshed) during my first days here, observing tidy bales of straw, rubber boots organised neatly in pairs and a mother tending to her newborn calf.

Goshala

I am housed in a concrete block, six rooms in a row sharing two bathrooms. Rooms are clean, light and basic: narrow wooden beds, a desk, a chair.

As the only foreigner I get to bear close witness to the daily habits and rituals of the Indians. In the absence of western comforts and conveniences it can be helpful to watch and learn how to get things done.

For example, there is no laundry service, very much a personal challenge! The common practice is to soak one's clothing in a bucket filled to the brim with water and to leave this overnight in the hallway.  Items are rinsed through the following morning and hung on the indoor clothes line in the common area. Larger items such as saris and bed linen are spread flat on the gravel outside in the strong, bright sunlight. 

Naturally enough the toilets are Indian squat style and the bathing facilities are equally straightforward: cold tap, bucket and jug. This suits me well although I am careful to time my sessions, scurrying along the corridor wrapped in a sheet (no bathrobe!) to avoid encountering and embarrassing any of the men.  In the warm humidity of Kerala morning and evening baths feel necessary; it gets quite dusty on the roads and paths.

Peeping into the bhajan hall

It surprises me that the accommodation is mixed as so many of the ashram activities are segregated by sex. Separate queues and seating in the canteen, and also in the main bhajan hall. 

I am thrilled to find myself belonging to a community of women. Eating together, singing together and sitting out together in the warm evenings after dusk. 

It doesn’t matter that I don't understand their conversations. It is enough to be with them. Absorbing with delight the details of their dress, their handwritten prayer books, the way they conduct themselves. 

We sit close together, cross legged on the floor, elbows and knees touching, I don’t mind the lack of personal space: spending intimate time with Indian women is a rare blessing.  

I have learned some gentle feminine etiquettes, such as dressing my hair with fresh jasmine flowers.  It looks delightful and acts as a natural air freshener, gently perfuming one’s environment with every turn of the head.  I have also acquired the habit of carrying a cotton handkerchief, folded and tucked into my churidar(wide cotton trousers). 

These are mainly ladies of a certain age, in their fifties, sixties and seventies. At this stage of life freedom from raising children and/or work permits them to undertake yatra (spiritual pilgrimage) and visit ashrams. 

There is plenty of smiling and nodding as we acknowledge each other. Any conversation is dependent on their level of English. As, alas, I have no Hindi. Typically the questions come Which country?  or Coming from? Followed closely by Your good name? Married? First visit to India?

Prema and Nirmala introduce themselves

Most of ladies I spoke with had been visiting Anandashram regularly, many for decades as disciples of the original guru.  

In the tranquility of mataji’s peace garden, sisters Prema and Nirmala ignored the signs requesting silence and told me of their annual eight day visit from Coimbatore. 

Every year we are coming, it is most important to visit ashram, stay at least one week. This very calm place, life so busy, no?

Jyoti, a plump and chatty retired school teacher from Hyderabad likes to sit next to me during the evening meal. She scours the dining hall looking for me and settles happily by my side, usually bringing extras that she has mysteriously acquired, carried in a stainless steel tiffin. Chapattis, bananas and sweet treats such as ladoo and pak .

Mealtimes are announced by the clanging of a large bell outside the canteen. Guests and residents dutifully form lines: men to the left, women to the right and file in. As we are in South India, rice is the basis of every meal prepared in the endless creative variations: idlis, dosa, upma for breakfast and huge avalanches of plain rice served with vegetable sauces at lunch and dinner, supplemented by milk and curd from the dairy. 

Communal canteen

The schedule at Anandashram is full with chanting and singing of all kinds. There is no obligation to attend but I pretty much love it all! I have joined in the chanting of ram nam, slowly pacing the shrine rooms of the departed gurus and clapping a steady rhythm. 

Yesterday morning I sat in on Om namaha shivayah, a favourite chant of mine, sung unaccompanied by a petite lady in her seventies, her solo voice was raw, wavering and deeply soulful. Definitely the most powerful and memorable rendition I have heard so far.

Possibly my personal highlight has been listening to the Hanuman chalisa, sung by the women, accompanied by harmonium. I am keen to learn this epic poem for myself and twice I took a copy of the words along but found the singing so blissful and enjoyable that I chose to simply relax and absorb the vibrations.

I’ve drawn a few tentative conclusions about my time here:

Simplicity in practice. Bhajan and mantra sound very good sung solo, unaccompanied – or minimally accompanied: musicality comes second.

Letting go of learning I didn’t have a chant sheet or song book and the bhajans were complex, I had to forget about trying to learn them. This focused me in the present moment and enabled me to receive, receive, receive.

Singing with women This is quite personal to me, I feel so safe and nourished in an all female setting. I am keen to explore this further.

Raghupati Raghav Raja Ram (Ram Dhun) Anandashram by divine yoga

Blessings and pranams

Jennifer 

*Further information on the spiritual lineage at Anandashram

www.anandashram.org/divinemasters